Sodding a New Lawn
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Sodding A New Lawn
When sodding a new lawn, the preparation that will go into it is the same for seeding a new lawn, sprigging a
new lawn or the instructions in Lawn Establishment. After you have gotten the lawn worked up, leveled out and
ready for grass seed, or sprigs, in the Sodding case, you are ready for sod. There really isn't any big secret to
sodding, (green side up) after you get the soil ready and you have called the sod company for your order you are
ready to start putting the sod down. You will get the sod in 18" X 24" squares usually. Some companies still cut
in small rolls that you just roll out. I prefer the squares, you can grab one with each hand and walk to the spot
and throw them down. As long as the sod is good enough quality to stay together this works. Sometimes you
will get a load of sod that is very tender, not a good root system or wet and thin, this sod will tear apart when your
trying to pick it up off of the pallet and this makes for a very long day. When laying sod start along the longest,
straightest border you have, like a driveway, sidewalk or the property line. Get your first row started straight and
just follow it across the lawn. Stagger each row of sod so the seams don't match up on each row. Lay what's
called a "brick bond" pattern. The sod should look like a wall of bricks after laid, with the joints of the sod falling
in the middle of the piece under it. Take care to get the joints of each piece butted up against each other, it will
make for a smoother surface once you are done. Don't worry if there are some gaps here and there, they will fill
in once the sod has a chance to root down. Depending on the type of sod you use, the gaps will fill in completely
within two weeks to 6 weeks. Bermuda grass and Zoysia Grass in our area of West Tennessee, Henry county,
are warm season grasses that spread by rhizomes, stolons or both. These grasses will fill in the gaps even if
they are up to 1 or 2" wide. You don't want gaps that wide, but if you have one or two don't worry about it. Fescue
grass doesn't spread, so you need to be more careful on your seams and get it tight.
After all the sod is laid in the main field of the lawn, start cutting small pieces and fill in around the edges and if
there were any pieces of sod that were missing a large hole in the middle of it, patch those. You will always
have a few pieces of sod that are kind of trashy, fall apart or are real thin with holes, it's normal. Just take some
pieces of the torn up sod and put them in the holes. Step on them to get them in good contact with the soil and
move on. Everything does not have to be perfect, and the lawn will look kind of ragged when you get done laying
the sod. Pieces of the sod will be sticking up, some different colors than others, some sod might even be cut
shorter than other pieces. All of this doesn't matter now, in a couple of weeks all of it will grow in and be
beautiful ! When you are completely done and have all the scrap pieces of sod picked up you will be ready to
roll the sod. This will press down all of the uneven pieces and give the roots a good pressing into the soil. A pull
or push walk behind type roller works fine. They will give you a good workout, and sometimes takes two people
to push the thing. It depends on what type of grade you have, how steep. You can use the kind that hooks to a
larger lawn mower, just be sure you don't have a slopped lawn. The tires might start spinning on the loose sod
and tear out some of your hard work. If you don't have access to a roller, don't worry about it, the grass will even
out after a few weeks of growing and mowing.
When sodding a new lawn, the preparation that will go into it is the same for seeding a new lawn, sprigging a
new lawn or the instructions in Lawn Establishment. After you have gotten the lawn worked up, leveled out and
ready for grass seed, or sprigs, in the Sodding case, you are ready for sod. There really isn't any big secret to
sodding, (green side up) after you get the soil ready and you have called the sod company for your order you are
ready to start putting the sod down. You will get the sod in 18" X 24" squares usually. Some companies still cut
in small rolls that you just roll out. I prefer the squares, you can grab one with each hand and walk to the spot
and throw them down. As long as the sod is good enough quality to stay together this works. Sometimes you
will get a load of sod that is very tender, not a good root system or wet and thin, this sod will tear apart when your
trying to pick it up off of the pallet and this makes for a very long day. When laying sod start along the longest,
straightest border you have, like a driveway, sidewalk or the property line. Get your first row started straight and
just follow it across the lawn. Stagger each row of sod so the seams don't match up on each row. Lay what's
called a "brick bond" pattern. The sod should look like a wall of bricks after laid, with the joints of the sod falling
in the middle of the piece under it. Take care to get the joints of each piece butted up against each other, it will
make for a smoother surface once you are done. Don't worry if there are some gaps here and there, they will fill
in once the sod has a chance to root down. Depending on the type of sod you use, the gaps will fill in completely
within two weeks to 6 weeks. Bermuda grass and Zoysia Grass in our area of West Tennessee, Henry county,
are warm season grasses that spread by rhizomes, stolons or both. These grasses will fill in the gaps even if
they are up to 1 or 2" wide. You don't want gaps that wide, but if you have one or two don't worry about it. Fescue
grass doesn't spread, so you need to be more careful on your seams and get it tight.
After all the sod is laid in the main field of the lawn, start cutting small pieces and fill in around the edges and if
there were any pieces of sod that were missing a large hole in the middle of it, patch those. You will always
have a few pieces of sod that are kind of trashy, fall apart or are real thin with holes, it's normal. Just take some
pieces of the torn up sod and put them in the holes. Step on them to get them in good contact with the soil and
move on. Everything does not have to be perfect, and the lawn will look kind of ragged when you get done laying
the sod. Pieces of the sod will be sticking up, some different colors than others, some sod might even be cut
shorter than other pieces. All of this doesn't matter now, in a couple of weeks all of it will grow in and be
beautiful ! When you are completely done and have all the scrap pieces of sod picked up you will be ready to
roll the sod. This will press down all of the uneven pieces and give the roots a good pressing into the soil. A pull
or push walk behind type roller works fine. They will give you a good workout, and sometimes takes two people
to push the thing. It depends on what type of grade you have, how steep. You can use the kind that hooks to a
larger lawn mower, just be sure you don't have a slopped lawn. The tires might start spinning on the loose sod
and tear out some of your hard work. If you don't have access to a roller, don't worry about it, the grass will even
out after a few weeks of growing and mowing.
Watering is going to be the most important thing you do now. We cannot
stress enough how important it is. New sod has a short shelf life.
Fescue, Bluegrass, and Ryegrass are going to be the most tender. I
suggest start laying your sod and as you get a section done large
enough to water, go ahead and water it. Even if it's only a spraying from a
water hose spray nozzle, get the leaves wet. This can mean the
difference in the grass turning yellow and even dieing off or staying
green. After the grass is completely laid and you have rolled it if your
going to, start watering. Don't wait two days for it to rain, it will be too late,
water right now and get all of the sod wet just as soon as you can, within
8 hrs at the most. Get all the sod wet and then go back and start
watering again, this time soak it deep. Water until you have puddles
forming and water running off. At this point you have the first watering
done. Don't let the sod dry out! Don't think that watering once is going to
be enough. If you let the sod dry out even once, it can kill Fescue Sod.
Bermuda and Zoysia are much tougher and can take getting dry once or
twice without dieing, they will yellow off or even turn brown but won't die.
For the next several weeks you will have to watch the grass and see how
it is doing daily, you may need to water every day, or skip a couple days,
it will depend on how much rain you get, how much sun, cloudy, hot, dry,
winter, summer, etc. Just use common sense and water if you need to.
Mowing will need to be done in about 2 or 3 weeks. Set your mower deck
up high around 3" and just barely cut the tops off the grass the first time.
Be sure and back off on the watering before you mow, so you don't put
ruts in the lawn or even tear out chunks of sod. Be sure you have a sharp
blade also, dull worn out blades will cause the grass to tear instead of
cut leaving a brown haze across the lawn. Clean cuts are given with
sharp blades and sharp blades won't pull the new grass out of the
ground. Also, the grass will have a brown haze with dull blades.
After about a month of regular watering, you can slow down on how often
you water, water longer at each watering, but only once or twice a week.
This encourages deep rooting instead of shallow rooting. The grass
roots will follow the depth of the moisture, deeper water means deeper
roots. Look at our page on Irrigation Systems for more detailed
information on watering. The main thing in the early days of new sod is
to Keep It Wet!! Good luck with your new sod and email us if you have
any questions! E Mail Questions Here
stress enough how important it is. New sod has a short shelf life.
Fescue, Bluegrass, and Ryegrass are going to be the most tender. I
suggest start laying your sod and as you get a section done large
enough to water, go ahead and water it. Even if it's only a spraying from a
water hose spray nozzle, get the leaves wet. This can mean the
difference in the grass turning yellow and even dieing off or staying
green. After the grass is completely laid and you have rolled it if your
going to, start watering. Don't wait two days for it to rain, it will be too late,
water right now and get all of the sod wet just as soon as you can, within
8 hrs at the most. Get all the sod wet and then go back and start
watering again, this time soak it deep. Water until you have puddles
forming and water running off. At this point you have the first watering
done. Don't let the sod dry out! Don't think that watering once is going to
be enough. If you let the sod dry out even once, it can kill Fescue Sod.
Bermuda and Zoysia are much tougher and can take getting dry once or
twice without dieing, they will yellow off or even turn brown but won't die.
For the next several weeks you will have to watch the grass and see how
it is doing daily, you may need to water every day, or skip a couple days,
it will depend on how much rain you get, how much sun, cloudy, hot, dry,
winter, summer, etc. Just use common sense and water if you need to.
Mowing will need to be done in about 2 or 3 weeks. Set your mower deck
up high around 3" and just barely cut the tops off the grass the first time.
Be sure and back off on the watering before you mow, so you don't put
ruts in the lawn or even tear out chunks of sod. Be sure you have a sharp
blade also, dull worn out blades will cause the grass to tear instead of
cut leaving a brown haze across the lawn. Clean cuts are given with
sharp blades and sharp blades won't pull the new grass out of the
ground. Also, the grass will have a brown haze with dull blades.
After about a month of regular watering, you can slow down on how often
you water, water longer at each watering, but only once or twice a week.
This encourages deep rooting instead of shallow rooting. The grass
roots will follow the depth of the moisture, deeper water means deeper
roots. Look at our page on Irrigation Systems for more detailed
information on watering. The main thing in the early days of new sod is
to Keep It Wet!! Good luck with your new sod and email us if you have
any questions! E Mail Questions Here
